BETWEEN COLONIAL CHARM AND FUTURISTIC MODERNITY
Empower Your Living
October 29, 2025 · 9 min read
October 29, 2025 · 9 min read
My journey from Indonesia takes me to Singapore – a city I last visited in 1989, on my very first self-funded trip from Australia back to Switzerland. Naturally, I’m planning a multi-day stopover. Back then, what stood out most was Chinatown – and the feeling of practically melting in the hot and humid climate. This time, after seven weeks in Indonesia, I’m perfectly acclimated and excited to experience the metropolis with fresh eyes.
Back In Chinatown
I’m staying at the Mercure ICON City Centre (see notes), right in the heart of Chinatown. The room is tiny but charming – and with the floor-to-ceiling window in front of which I roll out my yoga mat every morning, I immediately feel at home. As I gaze over the rooftops of the historic shophouses, I sink into my inner world. I have arrived.
On my very first morning, I explore the narrow streets of the neighbourhood. Much has changed. The colourful shophouses still stand, but where families once lived and ran their shops on the street, souvenir stores now sell cheap tourist trinkets. Time doesn’t stand still, even in historic quarters.
My first stop is the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, which opened in 2007 – and which I can even see from my hotel room. The moment I step inside, I feel transported to another world. Among the golden statues and intricately crafted incense burners, I lose track of time. Memories of my trip to Tibet 20 years ago come flooding back – the same stillness, the same sense of power. I spend two hours exploring the five-storey temple and all its Buddhist artifacts.
Afterwards, my path leads me through the colourful streets of Chinatown. I admire the street art, visit the Sri Mariamman Temple, and the Thian Hock Keng Temple, one of the city’s oldest and most important. Time and again, I am struck by how harmoniously cultures, religions, and philosophies coexist in Singapore – a living example that diversity can create peace.
After so many impressions, hunger starts to make itself known. I head to one of the typical hawker centres – Singapore’s legendary food courts, where delicious aromas and sizzling sounds fill every corner. I expect crowds and long lines, but find the opposite: closed stalls, empty tables. It’s Saturday, and the business crowd is absent.
A friendly man recommends a beef noodle dish – simple, yet delicious. Full and satisfied, I continue strolling until fatigue catches up with me. After a long walk through the city, I treat myself to a siesta at the hotel, which lasts longer than planned. The evening ends in a relaxed way: snacks from the convenience store, Netflix, and a view of Chinatown at night – sparkling, calm, magical.
Emerald Hill: Colonial Architecture and a True Peranakan-Style Gem
In the heart of bustling Singapore lies a street that feels like a time capsule: Emerald Hill Road. Just a few steps away from the modern shopping mile Orchard Road, the historic shophouses here exude an incomparable tranquility and elegance.
The houses are a feast for the eyes – pastel-colored facades, ornate shutters, and filigree balconies tell stories from the colonial era. The Peranakan influences are particularly fascinating: bright tiles, detailed carvings, and colorful decorations give the houses a unique charm.
Today, the shophouses have taken on a new role: many have become sought-after luxury properties, while some house stylish bars and small cafés that combine historic charm with modern lifestyle. A stroll along Emerald Hill Road feels like a little trip back in time. I would love to go back for a moment and experience what life must have been like back then.
Old Meets New: Singapore From the Water
Today, I want to experience Singapore from the water. I take the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) towards Clarke Quay, but even buying a ticket turns out to be a small challenge. No machine looks the way I’m used to. So I ask a woman for help. Not only does she patiently explain the process, she even accompanies me to the main entrance. On my travels, I keep encountering people who are helpful, curious, and warm – this encounter is yet another example. We strike up a conversation, and she tells me about her trip to Switzerland, which left her with only good memories. These brief encounters are what make travelling so special for me – they show how easily people can connect when openness is involved.
An MRT staff member then explains that I don’t even need a ticket – I can just scan my credit card at the gate. So effortless! I hop on the train to Clarke Quay, eager to see the city from a new perspective.
Clarke Quay was once the bustling heart of colonial Singapore – goods from around the world were unloaded here before being shipped onward or stored in the old warehouses. Today, the area is heritage-protected, and the restored warehouses house trendy restaurants, bars, and boutiques.
Singapore is a place where old meets new, history meets the future, spirituality meets efficiency. This mix, combined with cultural diversity, is what makes the city so fascinating. People from all over the world live here – Chinese, Malay, Indian, Arab, expats – creating together a vibrant, open-minded atmosphere.
After exploring the neighbourhood on foot, I treat myself to a one-hour boat tour along the Singapore River. From the water, the city reveals its full splendour: historic buildings, modern glass façades, and the majestic Marina Bay Sands Hotel with its floating rooftop – a symbol of Singapore’s futuristic spirit.
I could go up there, but my wallet needs a little break, and shorts and a hiking shirt are hardly appropriate evening wear for the luxury lounge. I smile to myself. It’s always good to save a little for the next visit.
Gardens by the Bay: Where Nature Meets the Future
After a relaxed afternoon by the hotel pool, I head out to Gardens by the Bay just before dusk. The vast park immediately impresses me: futuristic structures merge seamlessly with lush greenery, and the Marina Bay Sands Hotel looks even more monumental up close. From every angle I snap countless photos, especially of the rooftop terrace that stretches elegantly across the three towers.
Just before sunset, I step onto the OCBC Skyway – a 50-metre-high walkway that runs between twelve of the famous eighteen “Supertrees.” As the evening light show begins, the massive tree sculptures change colours in rhythm with the music. It’s a captivating spectacle that stays with you.
The Supertrees are more than just a visual highlight: they are vertical gardens, home to exotic plants like bromeliads, ferns, orchids, and tropical climbers. This combination of technology, art, and nature is what makes the Gardens truly unique.
On the morning of my departure, I return to the park, this time to the Cloud Forest, an artificial mist-filled rainforest. Walking along the elevated paths, I wander through evergreen landscapes and marvel at exotic plants from tropical and subtropical regions – a sensory experience that leaves me in awe.
Little India, Kampong Glam, and a Touch of Gotham
On my last day, I travel through cultures without leaving Singapore.
In Little India, I’m greeted by a fireworks display of colours, scents, and sounds: golden jewellery, vibrant saris, garlands of flowers, and the spicy aroma of curry. I dive in briefly – and get lost in the colourful chaos.
Just a few steps away, in the Malay-Muslim district of Kampong Glam, I visit the Masjid Sultan Mosque – impressive, but less ornate than those in Istanbul or Cairo. Yet here too, I feel the same peaceful energy.
Just a stone’s throw from Kampong Glam stands the famous office building Parkview Square. This iconic structure is known for its characteristic Neo-Art Deco architecture, earning it the nickname “Gotham Building.” As an architecture enthusiast and big Art Deco fan, my main goal is to visit the renowned ATLAS Bar (see notes). Even the 15-metre-high gin tower with over 1,300 bottles is a feast for the eyes. I snap photos from every conceivable angle, and after a little hesitation, I finally decide to step inside and treat myself to a gin. Expensive? Yes. But absolutely worth it. 🥂
Rediscovery After 36 Years
Singapore is a fascinating microcosm – a place where cultures merge, history meets the future, and spirituality coexists alongside skyscrapers. After 36 years, I experienced the city entirely anew. It’s louder, more colourful, more modern – yet it hasn’t lost its soul.
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