A ROUGH START, ISLAND CALM, AND TURTLE MAGIC ON GILI AIR
Empower Your Living
October 13, 2025 · 6 min read
October 13, 2025 · 6 min read
It’s already been a long travel day when I finally land in Denpasar, Bali, late in the evening on July 24. All I can think about is sinking into a cozy king-size bed and treating myself to a proper night of sleep. After all, the adventure continues the next day — on a fast boat to Gili Air, a small island with a relaxed vibe north of Lombok.
But first, my patience is tested: my suitcase seems to take forever to appear. After what feels like an eternity, I finally spot my precious luggage on the carousel — phew, it made it from Singapore! My relief is short-lived, though, because as soon as I start pushing it, it gets stuck — like a shopping cart with a broken wheel. A look down confirms the disaster: one of the four wheels is completely torn off. Oh no. And right at the start of my long journey! 😬🤬
Of course, the airline isn’t taking responsibility for the damage, so I have no choice but to continue traveling with my three-legged companion. Two months it must survive — at least until my brief stopover in Switzerland.
Finally outside, my driver greets me with a warm smile — and suddenly, all my frustration melts away. Then, the tropical heat hits me like a wall. Welcome to Southeast Asia!
Horse Carts and Turtles
The alarm jerks me out of a deep sleep the next morning. After a leisurely breakfast, I shuffle, still half-asleep, to the reception, check out, and am immediately greeted by my transfer to the harbor. I’m beyond excited for the boat ride to Gili Air.
As soon as the boat docks, I’m struck by how relaxed life is here. In the “center” — if you can even call it that on such a tiny island — there are a few cozy restaurants and charming boutiques. Long-term travel definitely has its perks: I have zero desire to shop. My suitcase is already full, and with all my dive gear, I’m constantly over the baggage limit anyway. The weight and costs add up, but having my own equipment is worth it — I want to dive as often as possible.
On my very first evening, I discover the charming French restaurant Makan La Vie (see notes). Excellent food, friendly service — and all at an absolute bargain. My stomach cheers, and so does my wallet. Once again, I’m reminded just how ridiculously expensive Switzerland is.
When eyes, stomach, and wallet all smile
The next day, I rent a bike to scout out a dive center. On Gili Air, there are no cars — only bicycles, electric scooters, and horse-drawn carts. Aside from the electric scooters, I feel transported back in time — even though I never actually lived in those days. I hop on the bike and start pedaling. Soon, I arrive at a dive center: Manta Dive (see notes). Could the name be a good omen? Will I finally see my first manta ray?
The reason I’m kicking off my trip with a sort of “holiday” is simple: I want to dive as often as possible. Flipping through my guidebook, I’m told that there are many diving opportunities on the Gili Islands. My birthday falls in the first week of travel, and I’m determined to spend it underwater. Unfortunately, I wake up on the first morning with a sore throat — yes, air conditioning is both a blessing and a curse. I hope it doesn’t get worse, because as long as my sinuses are clear, I can dive.
But the cold sets in, and I have to postpone my dives. Luckily, Manta Dive is flexible and reschedules me for the following days without any extra cost. Soon enough, I’m diving two days into the deep sea, and the four dives are breathtaking. I do struggle a lot with equalizing pressure — something that almost never happens to me. Once again, I realize it’s no small privilege to explore this incredible underwater world. I savor every moment and feel rewarded: I encounter numerous turtles. Watching these ancient creatures is always a joy. In those moments, I’m simply happy and grateful. Unfortunately, the encounter with a manta ray doesn’t happen.
The best recovery from the early travel strains
After the peaceful days on Gili Air, a new energy awaits me in Bali. An encounter that sets everything in motion — and teaches me what letting go truly means.
Read the next part to find out how a seemingly small decision completely changed the way I experience life.
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Email: barbara@empoweryourliving.com
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